Wednesday, May 6, 2020

Chulu Far East Expedition 2020

Chulu Far East Expedition 2020 

First climb of Chulu Far East was in 1955 by a German climber.  It is located in the north of Ngawal and Manang. To the crampon point (5,400m) of this peak is 275 km far from Kathmandu. I was told it’s easy to climb, but No! This is moderate range of tough peak to climb. Frederik said, it’s harder than Island peak and Mera peak he had done already. 

There are three long approach blue icy steps to cross before the summit. Uttar Rai fallen nearly five meter deep into the crevasse en route to last step. Fortunately we were climbing up with a travelling rope together so we were able to pull him out of it. Along our trip there were found three crevasses fully covered with fresh snow. We used south-west-col route to scale up to 5,984 m, then turned to east and took a walk along blade-like-ridge till the Summit 6,038 m (some report shows as 6,059 m). 

Well worth the effort we did. Awe-inspiring views of the rocky mysterious faces of Chulu west and east with hugely deposited icefall, the Annapurna I, II, III, IV, Gangapurna, Manaslu range right behind Kangaroo himal, Pisang peak and the valley  provide you never-ending joy and the experience of lifetime vivid memories to cherish. 

In my opinion, if someone is interested to climb any peak in Nepal, “Chulu Far East” is one the best options, because Island peak, Mera peak and other peaks in the east of Nepal are been climbed by many people. But Chulu Far East or Chulus are less climbed peaks and that’s why they are more special to me. Other good reason is you can combine it with Lalupate / NATT trek and the World’s highest Lake Tilicho including Mesokanto pass or Thorong la etc. 

Ngawal is best point to start for this expedition trip. You also can directly drive to here, but I will not give this advice to you. You need to have well acclimatization before climbing it. If you have adequate timing can start it at Besisahar and trek all the way up to crampon point. In case of you have less time, at least you should start it at Dharapani or Timang. 

A brief trail description between Ngawal and CFE high camp: 

At Ngawal just nearby the gompa, turns left and follow the red/white markers till the sign post at Portoche. Here slightly bend right and continue on the open field entering the juniper bushes and pine forest trail with the pleasing views. Gradually climb up to Yak Kharka (3,967 m) takes about 3 hrs. But it’s important to have well acclimatization. At Yak Kharka, there is a tea-shop; it can be opened on your request at Ngawal, where the owner lives. Yak Kharka has a big camping place, you easily can put 30/40 tents at the same time. Drinking water can use from the side stream following nearby. 

At Yak Kharka, you cross the stream and extremely hard climb on the grassy steep reaching the rocky part (4,751 m), it took us 4 hrs. Here the trail leads left and continue climbing to cross the ridge above the big brown cliff takes 30 min. Then turn right, after 10 min, following along this ridge, now trail bends left and easy walk to the water stream may take 50/60 min, again final climb for today and in next 45 min, you come at the CFE base camp (5,100 m). It depends on the current weather condition; otherwise you can set a camp just before the stream also. 

At CFE base camp you take a walk rightwards to continue about 30/40 min, and steady hard climb to high camp (5,300 m). There are sufficient spots to camp and the views are so fascinating, and in the night the shooting stars over Chulu made me astonished! We attempted the summit from the base camp, which is much longer and takes a lot time. So, doing it from the high camp is more wise and practical. 

We were a team of four; senior mountaineering guide Chhiri Rai from Chocholung, Solukhumbu. He has climbed several mountains including Mt. Everest. As a guest Mr. Frederik Tepe from Germany, alternative guide Uttar Kulung Rai Sunsari and I took a role of an assistant guide. 

If anyone wants to know more about it, you can contact us on provided E-mail or WhatsApp numbers. This trip takes to complete in 19 to 25 days, from Kathmandu to Kathmandu. 

Special thanks to Mr. Robert Beecham in England, who has helped to edit my article. 


Lakeside - 6, Pokhara, Nepal. 



Cell Phone and WhatsApp: 
+977 9846306028 
+977 9807380590 



It is owned by three professional trekking guides (Prem, Sukra and Maina) in Pokhara. They are more than one and half decade experienced in trek and tour leading throughout the Himalayas of Nepal. Prem is one of the NATT~book (New/Natural Annapurna Trekking Trail) writers with Andrees de Ruiter in Germany,

PNT is a big different than other trekking agencies in Nepal, how?

I've seen many agency or company owners and managers in Nepal, who have never been to Annapurna or Everest; still designing your program!!

Our agency manager Sukra Rai is a most competent trekking guide as well, that’s why he has all kind of knowledge regarding the trek and tour including NATT. Therefore; three of us can design all your programs and lead the tour is a perfect combination.

Our staffs are well trained; most of them are involved marking and finding the NATT trails including the Annapurna Seven Passes Trek, North Annapurna Base Camp, newly designed the Lalupate Trail and all major treks in Nepal. They are well equipped and ensured with their insurance. Also most of them are skilled with Massage Therapy; during the trip if anyone requested for it, they may easily available. To entertain clients, they can perform singing and dancing as well as few of them can play bamboo flute and Nepali traditional drum. Most of them are English speaking, few of them can speak Korean and Chinese.

Also our team is working for EEF (earthquake emergency fund), and delivered many relief aids to the affected families mainly in Gorkha and Dhading. We have built 8 houses in Gorkha and handover for the families who did lost homes from the last earthquakes in Nepal.


It is owned by the professional trekking guides and NATT (New/Natural Annapurna Trekking Trail) book writer in Nepal. You totally get here a family environment. There are 6 rooms on rent. Four of them for couple, one twin bed and one single. Every room has private porch, cupboard, 24 hour hot shower with the attached bath and toilet and free Wi-Fi service. It's good to sit at the peaceful roof-top garden with the dramatic view of the para-glider over Sarangkot and the background scenery of Machhapuchre Himal including the surrounding green hills, villages, the Fewa Lake and the Stupa (World Peace Pegoda) in the west.

It is located at Lakeside - 6, Khahare Marga (street no: 19) near the Khahare Chowk (about 300 meters far from the lake shore), same building of Fishtail Paragliding and you can Google PREMS NEPAL TREK right behind the hotel Mandap and Tropicana.

Also a perfect guest house for the budget travellers. On request we prepare Nepali breakfast and if anyone interested for a short cooking course of Nepali Thali (veg and none-veg) you can learn and cook it yourself with us at our kitchen.

Still Maina's "STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN MASSAGE" therapy service is available on request.


Prem Rai


Lakeside – 6, Khahare Chowk (street no: 19), Pokhara Nepal.



Cell phone:

+977 9807380590 (Sukra)

+ 977 9846306028 (Prem)

+977 9804115956 (Maina)